Jakarta Fashion Week has come to an end. If you call yourself a fashionista then it’s time to sort through the thousands of pictures and make a mental note of what to stock in your closet for the following year. Hanifa Ambadar explores more.
There were more than sixty designers involved in Jakarta Fashion Week this year and every one of them brought their best efforts to offer something new to Indonesia’s fashion scene. It’s fun to see different collections and the designer’s own way of interpreting things and incorporating global trends into their own collection.
If you think Indonesian design is too bead-happy (payet) then it’s time to re-think. Fewer beads are definitely in order for next year, thanks in part to the global crisis that has forced some of the designers to take a shift in a new direction. The savvy consumers don’t want to spend money on something they can only wear once, or costs a lot to maintain and is too complex to wear for everyday occasions. People want something practical, yet still exuding luxury which can be felt and seen from the fabrics and the understated details.
The second trend is the colourful Indonesian textiles that were all over the runway. The designers explored different types of traditional fabrics, provided by our country’s rich heritage like ikat, songket and tenun. They transformed the fabrics into modern silhouette like mini-dresses, skirts, jackets and shorts. Even batik still made an appearance, especially from the lesser known batik area of Banyumas, brought to the floor beautifully by Poppy Dharsono.
Denny Wirawan brilliantly turned Tenun Buton Mona textiles from Sulawesi Tenggara into a modern collection with artistic detail. While Ghea, who has been consistently drawn on Indonesia traditional clothing took inspiration from Javanese aristocracy by using velvet and rich gold motifs on the collection.
The traditional men’s plaid sarong also made an appearance. Era Soekamto brought it to life in the form of jackets, blouse and shift dresses. Stephanus Hamy presented ethnic-inspired clothes that are very wearable and clean looking. Carmanita nonchalantly transformed batik into easy and comfortable material like viscose, eco green cotton, lycra and satin. Valentino Napitupulu turned Sumatra Utara heritage, Songket Toba into an elegant collection. The most fun and cheerful batch was from Lenny Agustin who playfully used batik, lurik and tenun. All of those and much more proved that Indonesian traditional fabrics can be worn on any occasion from day to night.
Padded or pagoda shoulders were all the rage in thus year’s Jakarta Fashion Week. Priyo Oktaviano even took it up a level, styling-wise, giving an edgier look to an already structured silhouette.
The Menswear department was getting exciting this time around. Finally, men have more of a choice than the usual brands at the mall. Nikicio homme is more or less similar to Nikicio femme. Sticking to her concept of designing pieces that can be worn for all seasons, she offers something chic and well-tailored for men without going far from the basic style. The two-tone blazer will win most men over. If you think the Nikicio collection is too safe, Jeffry Tan and Deden Siswanto, in addition to everyday styles, also presented clothes that were more dramatic.
One thing that excited me the most about Jakarta Fashion Week is the involvement of the new batch of talented young designers. Their young blood was reflected in collections that consisted of separates and wearable day to day clothes that have an added touch.
Looking at the models strut down the runway in their collections makes me think whether I should spend money on it or go for a getaway at the end of this year. Special among all of them, Sapto Djokokartiko is definitely one to watch out for. He is not a household name yet, but he is already a favorite among young socialites.
Onto the emerging designer, Stella Rissa is famous for assembling clothes that exude femininity—comfort and style go hand in hand. For Jakarta Fashion Week 09/10, she created her own twist of the famous bandage dress and made it look like stripes and not as tight as bodycon dresses, making it more figure friendly.
Jeffry Tan started his label in early 2009, but has already made a mark in the fashion industry. This time, he shocked us with the view of sexy nuns parading the runway. His collection is more experimental and offers more detailing but the cut and the black colour keeps them on the wearable side. Also a newcomer in the industry, Mel Ahyar gets her inspiration from the ‘40s. Aside from glamorous cocktail dresses, she also explored androgynous styling by creating modified jumpsuits and other more defined silhouettes.
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